Gabriel and Julietta from Tangocool are my absolutely favourite teachers.
Sometimes Gabriel looks alarmingly like Mr Bean.
Absolutely everyone must go to one Wednesday afternoon class with Eduardo Saucedo at Confiteria Ideal. Sadly he has upgraded his hairdo from magnificent mullet to something more sedate, but three hours of his muy effervescent high camp passion is a must. And Ideal is divine.
Mosquitos. I think I've donated about a litre of blood to these little portenas...I feel faint...quick, pass me a medialuna slathered with dulce de leche...
Milongas.
Absolutely everyone must go to one matinee (afternoon) milonga, or viejoteca as Marco and I call them. It's nice to know there will still be somewhere to go out to when you're 90.
Smells.
In rare moments, in the mornings, the diesel fumes lift and the delicious scent of woodsmoke from parillas (charcoal grills) firing up for the day mingle with the sugary doughy perfume of baking medialunas (pastelerias/confiterias bake all day).
Noise.
Consistent and insistent.
Linaea A
The first subte line (underground train) still runs the original timber trains. It feels like being inside a live animal as they stretch and flex organically as they rattle along.
Poverty.
It's still a really really really tough life for many here.
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