8 July 2007

Last Post...


Marco is packing. I am sniffling morosely into the keyboard.

We leave tonight at midnight (or possibly tomorrow morning 2am, who knows. We're flying Aerolineas Argentinas, after all...)

our last stroll along Defensa for the Sunday San Telmo Feria


one last lunch of chorizo, morcilla, provalone, rinones, bife de lomo, bife de chorizo and ensalada at the local parilla, Desnivel


one last cd purchase from a street Orquestra Tipica


hasta luego


chao chao

7 July 2007

Today's wonderings

you absolutely must have an icecream sundae at El Vesuvio

delivery bicycles are absolutely everywhere

arquitect alert: most edificios in Baires proudly display the names of the architect, builder, and sometimes the engineer

but not this one.

Can anyone tell me what the symbol of the two arms holding a stick with a red beanie on it means? it's absolutely everywhere

in the Cathedral

on the waterworks building

at the Plaza Asturia restaurant

Reasons to love San Telmo, Part Two.

There used to be trams here. They left these tracks here, just in case.

you can go antique shopping at night

or pick up some fresh fruit and veg

or bread and deli goods at the Mercado

maybe some feral pasta?

Things you absolutely can't photograph

Tango classes.

Gabriel and Julietta from Tangocool are my absolutely favourite teachers.
Sometimes Gabriel looks alarmingly like Mr Bean.

Absolutely everyone must go to one Wednesday afternoon class with Eduardo Saucedo at Confiteria Ideal. Sadly he has upgraded his hairdo from magnificent mullet to something more sedate, but three hours of his muy effervescent high camp passion is a must. And Ideal is divine.

Mosquitos. I think I've donated about a litre of blood to these little portenas...I feel faint...quick, pass me a medialuna slathered with dulce de leche...


Absolutely everyone must go to one matinee (afternoon) milonga, or viejoteca as Marco and I call them. It's nice to know there will still be somewhere to go out to when you're 90.

In rare moments, in the mornings, the diesel fumes lift and the delicious scent of woodsmoke from parillas (charcoal grills) firing up for the day mingle with the sugary doughy perfume of baking medialunas (pastelerias/confiterias bake all day).

Consistent and insistent.

Linaea A

The first subte line (underground train) still runs the original timber trains. It feels like being inside a live animal as they stretch and flex organically as they rattle along.

It's still a really really really tough life for many here.

6 July 2007


Today we went shoe shopping.

Jill, here are your shoes

Jo, these are your shoes

of course Marco already bought some

here are mine


Exclusive - Argentinians in High Places

5 July 2007

Porteno Oddservations

you can buy almost anything on subte (underground train) platforms

primary school children are dressed like hospital interns

Portenos like: